Apr 162013
 

From my travel photo files: The 443-foot-tall London Eye is erected in the fall of 1999. It was assembled flat, lying on barges in the Thames, and had to be slowly winched into a vertical position, 2 degrees an hour, while London stood by and wondered what millennial folly this would turn out to be.

It turned out to be a landmark for our age. It has been called the Millennium Wheel, the British Airways London Eye, the Merlin Entertainments London Eye, and the plain old London Eye. Today, it is known as the EDF Energy London Eye.

The London Eye is hoisted into place, fall 1999.

The London Eye begins life as a sort of wink, fall 1999.

Dec 312011
 

I’ve been road tripping a lot this year to research a big project I’m writing. When I got home from one of the most recent trips, I plugged in my digital camera to download my pictures and it stared at me blankly and said, “Pictures? What pictures?”

PhotoRescue took care of most of the problems, still, some of my images turned up corrupted. But my camera is an artist. It didn’t turn my images to snow. It inserted wry counterpoint and beautiful geometric juxtapositions. It found brilliant ways to immaculately bend my own visual commentary. These are true works of art.

Jackson Pollack did not credit gravity as a collaborator of his splatter paintings. So I also claim my camera’s binary hiccups as the fruit of my initial inspiration.

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Aug 312011
 

Jason Cochran at Mount RushmoreGirl, you know it’s true.

Mount Rushmore is empty-calorie patriotism, but it’s pretty.

Local concerns overbuilt the amenities so much in the 1990s so that they’re still paying them off. Merely parking a car costs $11. Sculptor Gutzon Borglum took extreme care in rendering his four subjects accurately, but the piles of tourist junk hawked by Xanterra at its several gift shop concessions? Not so much.

Here’s what it’s supposed to look like, in all its placebo-patriotic attractiveness:

Mount Rushmore

Mount Rushmore

But most of the tourist tat sold in the gift shops mangles the angles and fudges the faces.

Thomas Jefferson is usually made to look the most ridiculous.

Bad Mount Rushmore souvenir

Here, the boys appear to be beaten up

Bad Mount Rushmore souvenir

This Thomas Jefferson looks like Shelley Winters. I think Abe's in drag.

Bad Mount Rushmore souvenir

Abe looks like he just let one loose, and TR is giving him the stinkeye. Tommy's mascara is dripping. George is trying to ignore their shenanigans.

On this votive holder, it's Abe who's pissed off, and Tommy now resembles Bea Arthur...

Bad Mount Rushmore souvenir

...but if you light it, they look like the Beatles. George is John Lennon (of course), in shades.

Mount Rushmore model

Then again, even Gutzon Borglum's own model, on view in the old workshop, makes it look like George Washington is muscling in front of Thomas Jefferson, and Lincoln looks eerily like he's watching a play from the box at Ford's Theatre. (Obviously, our familiar, disembodied Mount Rushmore looks nothing like this model, either. He died in 1941, 14 years into it, and it's technically unfinished.)

East of the Black Hills, in front of a steak house on 79 in Hermosa, South Dakota, thought to be three castoffs from the now-closed Presidents Park sculpture garden, provide a counterpoint to Mount Rushmore with someone’s modern favorites: JFK, Reagan, and George W. Bush.

President Heads in Hermosa, SD

It's not the first time Dubya cast a dark shadow on the land

Then again, Teddy Roosevelt doesn’t really belong up on that mountain, either, does he? He’d only been dead for less than a decade when Rushmore was begun. But no one could talk Borglum, bullheaded man, out of carving TR on the rock.

There was a reason: Turns out they were good friends.

Jason Cochran at Mount Rushmore

Jan 172011
 

Before I was a travel writer, I was a full-time traveler. I spent nearly two years out on the road, backpacking around the world. And for many months of that journey, I conducted with an unusual experiment.

Every day at 3 o’clock on the dot, no matter where I was or what I was doing, I took a photograph. It didn’t matter if I was doing something mundane such as traveling on a bus or resting in my hostel dorm room: I would grab whatever I was doing as the clock struck three. Why should all my travel photos be exclusive to hyper-composed shots dominated by antiquities and assiduously smiling subjects?

With my 3 o’clock pictures, I would show travel as it really was, and it would be as true as any diary — truer, even, because it the collection wouldn’t be edited for the good bits. Therefore, I forbade myself the right to take time to compose shots well, because, I reasoned headily, that would be a betrayal of truth. The only compositional rule of the project dictated that I had to take a picture with my left wrist in the shot to indicate the time.

I kept the project up for months on end. I only stopped to break my own rule. When I stopped in Cape Town and rented an apartment, I found that too often, I was always doing the same thing at 3:00, and that was usually either hanging out in my flat or sitting in the Internet cafe. Suddenly, the 3:00 project was memorializing my shame. Besides, I was on a shoestring backpacker’s budget and I was using a film camera to take my pictures, and it was getting expensive. I decided that the potential of eighty consecutive images of my hand in my apartment or in front of a word processing program wasn’t the best use of my see-the-world funds, so I stopped taking my daily shot.

It was still a good idea, though.

I’ve gone through some of the pictures from my 3 o’clock project. Doing it brought me to the brink of tears. Just as I predicted, they paint a vivid portrait of the blend of excitement and mundane movement that full-time travelers experience, and they conjure up details of my experiences that I thought had gone away. They remind me of the boring hours and travelers’ tasks as well as the sublime pleasure of having no vocational demands. They also capture some surprises.

I did something I will never do again: I took the bus from London to Paris. I was trying to save my money, so I didn’t want to pay for Channel Tunnel. But in taking the eternal trip from London Victoria to the ferry to Paris, I lost a whole day of experiences. I got this picture, the first 3:00 shot I took.

London to Paris, 3:00

A typical shot of a hostel room. This one is Barcelona. A backpacker develops an intense relationship with their backpack. It is companion, provider, and home-from-home all in one. It is also tormentor, burden, and perennially inadequate. Travelers spend a lot of their time as caretakers for their stuff. Given the symbiotic/parasitic connection travelers have with their baggage, it’s a shame we don’t take pictures of it. We record our trips by turning our momentary attentions to the sights we see, but that’s a lie because our stuff is as much a part of our journeys — if not more. We should all take more pictures of our luggage.

I called my backpack “The Boys,” because it split into a backpack and a daypack, and it warms my heart to see The Boys looking so fresh and shiny at the start of a two-year journey.

Barcelona, 3:00

A typical bus ride. This one is between Beni Mellal, a town in central Morocco, and Fes, I do believe.

Morocco, 3:00

When I arrived in Florence, all the hostels were full. There was a waiting list in the lobby of one of them. I went over to one of the other backpackers and asked if he’d like to go somewhere else and split a cheap room. We went across town and found beds at a convent (true) and by the afternoon, we were out exploring. This is Peter Szollosi from Adelaide, Australia. The next year, I visited him in South Australia, and several years after that, Peter later stayed with me for a few weeks in New York City. And it was during that stay that he met an American girl, Julie Schuck, at a party.

They are now married, live in New York City, and Peter is one of my most treasured friends. When I was going through the photos from this project, it was a shock to see Peter just hours after we met. I didn’t remember taking this. He just happened to be in the day’s shot. But if we hadn’t met on this day, his life would be much different. And so would mine, which is why this one brought me to tears.

Peter is now an extremely talented and successful director of photography and editor, and I’ve had the great pleasure of working with him in my professional life, too. When I think about the accident of our meeting, and all that came to be because of it, this picture becomes incredibly poignant to me. It was a birth of more than either of us could have predicted.

So is every moment, if we allow it.

Florence, 3:00

On my trip, I napped everywhere. Who wants to do all your sleeping in a hostel when there is a world of wonders to nap by? Besides, you’re always having to get up early when you travel. To this day, this is one of my most memorable naps: in Syntagma Square, the central square in Athens. I slept for a while right out there on the grass like the vagrant I suppose I was. I still recall this fondly, as we tend to recall our first transgressions.

Future naps would include in an ancient cliffside home in Petra, Jordan, and on grass in front of the Taj Mahal, because it was easier than braving the streets of Agra during the festival of Holi. I considered making up “Nap the World” tee-shirts. But I was too lazy.

The FedEx was from (believe it or not), The Jerry Springer Show. A friend worked for it, and she sent me a tee-shirt and Jerry’s jazz CD. True.

Athens, 3:00

A typical street in Cairo. Backpackers spend a lot of their times wandering — or at least I do. This is how I will always think of Cairo: post-colonial, pleasingly ramshackle, a little brown with desert dust.

Cairo, 3:00

In Jordan, I hired a long-distance taxi to take me between Aqaba and Wadi Mousa. Carpeting on the dashboard: It’s the little details.

Jordan, 3:00

This is the kind of thing backpackers do: Buy deck-class tickets on ferries that take two days. I slept on the deck for the journey between Haifa, Israel, and Rodos, Greece, with a stop in Limassol, Cypress. On this trip, I learned that I what I thought was my usual seasickness was actually nausea from ships’ diesel fumes — an important discovery that opened up a lot of sea travel to me.

While an interloper from the fancy indoor class takes in the view, sitting with me are my temporary companions. She’s from Norway, and he’s from Holland. His name was Sander, I believe. Both lovely. You are never alone when you’re a backpacker. Your heart is always being lit up by strangers, and then broken again when you part ways on your separate paths after a few days.

Ferry from Haifa, 3:00

Walking through Goreme, Turkey, in Cappadocia. Notice the “fairy chimney” rock formations. I stayed at a hostel burrowed into some of them. As you do there.

Goreme, 3:00

This is my birthday, I think. I’m in Sultanhamet, Istanbul.

Istanbul, 3:00

In Edinburgh now, during Festival. I spent a whole lot of time reading and writing in my journal. I wrote whole books’ worth of observations. The book is Graham Greene’s Travels with My Aunt, which is appropriate reading partly because I was traveling like its characters and partly because it’s one of the only Greene books that doesn’t make you want to slit your wrists because of endless exposition of his Catholic miseries. This was my favorite pub, which I think was called the Green Tree. It was replaced by a condo a few years later. And so it goes.

Edinburgh, 3:00

I spent several weeks living at the High Street Hostel off the Royal Mile in Edinburgh. I made good friends with a very funny, very smart, very ambitious guy named Barry Ferns. As you can see as I captured our daily meal ritual in the hostel’s kitchens, he’s also very healthy. Barry Ferns, if you subscribe to Google Alerts, make yourself known to me again! I really liked you.

High Street Hostel, 3:00

Captured on the London Underground. Seeing this, those grotty old wooden Tube carriages, the ones with the grooved wooden floors, flooded back into my memory. This must have been the Northern Line. Wasn’t that one of the last ones to be modernized? I thought I missed those old cars, but looking at this, I remember just how grim they actually were.

London, 3:00

This is the last 3:00 picture I took, after it became clear that this project was exposing a failure in my activities during what was supposed to be my Isherwood-in-Berlin period. It was at a braai (barbecue) and pool party held at a house in Cape Town. Jayson Clark, who brought me to the party, was a friend I made when I arrived there. We’re still in touch, too, I love him to bits, and he is a wildly successful proprietor of a B&B empire, the Cape Dutch Quarters, in the winelands town of Tulbagh. Stay with him the next time you’re in Cape Town.

As for who that guy in the pool is, I have no recollection. I think he was puzzled about why I was taking his picture. I wasn’t, as you now know. That would simply be weird. No, I was taking a picture of my watch at 3:00 because I made a vow to do so. Not strange at all.

Cape Town, 3:00

Preserve even the most mundane moments. Go out into your neighborhood tomorrow and take pictures of things you’d never ordinarily think to capture, because it will change — usually imperceptibly and unrecorded. Ten years from now, 20 years from now, you’ll find your casual, unstaged, desultory pictures are probably the most interesting because of the unappreciated and fluid things they capture.

Dec 272010
 

This is a new one. I’m blogging from the floor of Terminal 4 at JFK. The short version: Despite the fact that a ferocious snowstorm was approaching full gale, Virgin Atlantic refused to cancel my flight to London. Unable to change my travel without incurring a $250-plus fee, I was forced to go to the airport even as the snow poured down. You can predict what Virgin, unaccountable, could not: We ended up stranded on the tarmac — we were on the plane for 4 and a half hours. And by the time they got us back to the gate, every path out of JFK had shut down. No cars, no rail.

I’ve been here for 22 hours. So I did what any travel writer/consumer reporter would do. I started tweeting about it. Never nasty. Just how it was — which was nasty enough.

virgin atlantic snow

The flight that shouldn't have left, before it did

And the blizzard made that little snowball into an avalanche. Word spread. Virgin’s ineptitude and recklessness compounded with a larger story of thousands of people stranded here. And then then food started running out. By this morning, despite having had only an hour’s sleep (beside a pleasantly monotonously whirring baggage belt), I had talked to GMA, WNBC, CNN, CNN International, the Associated Press, and just now, CBS and the CBC. Each one called me just as soon as the one before had posted their coverage. Another snowball effect.

Only now am I seeing my first taxis outside the window, except I can’t take any of them now; we’re supposed to try again at 7:30pm, or about 28 hours since I got here.

I’m fine. Don’t worry ’bout me! Worry about Virgin Atlantic, which apparently failed to learn anything from the standstill at Heathrow last week. When I called it on Saturday begging to be allowed to rebook myself to get out of the way of the blizzard, it told me I’d have to pay up. Now I’m living in an airport, and I’ll never get the stench of KFC out of my clothes.

Last night, I asked Josie, a Virgin Atlantic worker, for a blanket from a bag her colleague was holding, and she refused to give me one. She said some passengers hadn’t gotten one. I said I was one of them. She still refused. I have a feeling they were going to “Upper Class” passengers. I rode out the subfreezing night, which kept racing through the terminal’s regularly opening doors, by layering. It was inexcusable.

For its greed before the storm, irresponsibility during it, and intractable silence afterward, 250 of us are paying the price. But this snowball of attention is making this transit Purgatory more tolerable. It’s a lot easier to get through an uncontrollable, ineptly managed situation if you feel you have a voice — whether that’s on GMA, CNN, or written as you sit on freezing cold butt cheeks on the stone floor of the Terminal 4 arrivals hall.

It’s not all right when you contract for a service and you’re treated with disrespect, and it’s not all right when companies fail to properly prepare for obvious obstacles and then demand that you shoulder the punishment.

My tweets are ongoing, so follow me here.

If you’re looking for my video of the angry mob at the McDonald’s in JFK, click here.

jason cochran gma

I guess this was me on GMA

Living at JFK

Food ran out in the middle of the night, and we've a long way to go

It totally isn't

It totally is

Aug 242010
 

You know about my passion for connecting to American history, and for remembering how we’re all product of it, and how much I love dispelling the patronizing myth that the people who came before us were somehow simpler than we are. When it comes to a geek like me, there’s no bigger geek-out than meeting the man who personifies my beliefs about retelling the stories of American history.

It’s Ken Burns! The actual Ken Burns! You know: The Civil War, The War, Jazz, Baseball … I brought him to WalletPop today for an interview for his four-hour follow-up to Baseball, called The Tenth Inning, which airs in late September. I interviewed him last year, too, when he was promoting The National Parks. He won an Emmy for that last Saturday. I taped this interview the day after Letterman taped his.

Was it fascinating? Was it rangy? Was it heaven? Yes. A grand slam. We talked for a half hour — sadly, to be whittled down in editing — about baseball, doping, corruption, Barry Bonds’ asterisk (he doesn’t think he should have one) the Caribbean player as an analogue to Jewish and Irish immigrant labor, American culture and history, the common threads that tie all generations of Americans together, and Meryl Streep (who will voice Eleanor Roosevelt in one of his upcoming films).

Me, documentary idol Ken Burns, Aol producer Ken Shadford

I wonder if I could get Ken and David McCullough and Sarah Vowell in the same room at the time time. My head might explode.

I always say that “History is just something that didn’t happen to you.” Today, I feel like something happened to me.

Jul 272010
 

Step 1: Raise rent on beloved neighborhood institution (such as Joe Jr.’s Diner)

Step 2: Force closure of said tenant.

Step 3: Suffer without rental income as a result of putting your greed ahead of your community.

Step 4: Watch neighborhood decline.

… The only step I love is number three.

Joe Jr.'s diner location, Sixth Avenue and 12th Street, July 2010

Here’s the same place in April of 2004.

Joe Jr.'s diner, April 2004